The city has history coming out of it's pores and has been sympathetic in most places with the rejuvenation and improvement including the introduction of trams. I was last here about 18 years ago and I don't recognise a thing apart from a statue!
Last night we had a fantastic meal that had various courses with plenty of alcohol, though I have had enough beef this week I think. The food in general is great and there are more cheese sellers than policemen.
We have spent the day exploring the streets, parks, market and a crazy contemporary art museum. Tonight we are going to the massive fair that's in the city centre and then back to a stunning square with bars and restaurant.